Drunkards Path in Avantgarde (#97)

"A simultaneous explosion of color & geometric shapes" is how Art Gallery Fabrics describe their collection AvantGarde by Katarina Roccella.  Boy are they right!
20 artistic patterns and the Accuquilt large Drunkard's Path was the best way to showcase all the different geometric designs.  

I put into piles 8 pieces that looked good together (4 'pie' shapes and 4 "L" shapes) to make one big 'circle' block'.  A structured look was better for this quilt since there is a lot going on ... graphic angles, color, flowers, arrows, strips, dots ... it's all here.

Eack block is supposed to be 7.5" but since there are curves I always trim down to 7" in case of wonky sewing.

This Art Gallery Fabrics is beautiful and thin and a #10 needle worked nicely.  A small border all around brings this quilt to 59" x 73" - perfect for a minky/batting blanket.

Straight line stitching with a really pretty 50wt. mint thread by Aurifil on both the top & bottom... yes, even on the black back ... it's an AvantGarde quilt after all.

Lastly, if your fabric has an image that is too good to lose,  cut it the same size as a pieced block and squeeze it in.

Materials:
AvantGarde / Katarina Roccella / Art Gallery
Warm & White batting
Aurifil 50 wt. #2835 (medium mint) / #2692 (black)
Dimple dot minky / black
Accuquilt large Drunkards Path
Size: 59" x 73"
April 2018

Big Sky Simple Square Baby Quilt (#96)

Some quilts just resonate and the Big Sky simple square blanket I made for my high school's fundraiser  is one of them.

The soothing colors and bear & moose motifs were so cute that I got asked to make this quilt from various friends.  My math skills are not great ... end result is I bought way too much Big Sky fabric.  I guess it's more quilts for everyone and thankfully my friends are a patient lot so I can take my time making them!

What's better than this bear blanket going to Alaska for a new baby boy.  I chose to continue with  4.5" x 4.5" squares unfinished since I had leftovers from the other quilt.  I did buy some more bear and moose fat quarters since that is the cutest motif and who doesn't like more cuteness! 10 squares across, 10 rows down and a border trimmed to 2.25".

This is a blanket that will grow with baby.  A nice 43" x 43" with minky on the back and batting on the inside.  I duplicated the 'melding' look again by using the same fabric for the border & binding. 

I like making easy quilt patterns because of time restraints.  I enjoy making different patterns since I get bored.  Squares seem like cheating since they are so simple,  but time & time again they come out looking really pretty and are very well liked.  

Materials:
Big Sky by Annie Brady / Moda
Warm & White batting
Simple dot minky - brown
Aurifil 50wt. #2360 (brown) & #2314
Size: 43" x 43"
April 2018

Kaleidoscope Quilt ... Again (#95)

Kaleidoscope novelty fabric quilt #2 - just as fun to make as the first one. It's like an eye spy quilt for every age.

After making four kaleidoscope quilts I am still not tired of this pattern - nothing obsessive going on here!

Accuquilt die + white Kona + lots of fun scraps = a happy quilt.

Novelty kaleidoscope tips here.

Little Ruby star kaleidoscope with more details here.

Vintage style kaleidoscope quilt post here.

Materials:

Novelty cotton fabric / Kona white

Aurifil 50wt. #5007 & #2311

Warm & White batting

Dimple dot minky in Azurite & Candy Strip in Azurite from Hawthorne Threads

Accuquilt dies: Triangle-Isosceles 5"x6" / HST 3" Finished

Size: 60" x 70"

March 2018

Starburst Quilt ... Missouri Quilt Co. Style (#94)

I love a simple large scale pattern for novelty fabrics and Starburst from the Missouri Star Quilt Co. is perfect.  While the Starburst tutorial uses layer cakes - I choose to make my half square triangles with fabric yardage and the 6" finished square HST Accuquilt die.

My graphic skills are a little rustic so please ignore the color scheme and focus only on the diagram:  I made my guide with 10 blocks across by 12 rows down. The MSQC tutorial has larger half square triangles, a border and is configured in a square.  This is for a bed so I made the 'pattern' into a rectangle and changed the size of the HST.  It's really a great pattern to alter both in HST size and dimensions.  Making a graph to follow beforehand is very helpful!

I did exactly like Jenny said in the video - working in quadrants which was fun and easy to keep track of.

It's nice to use bold colors. Bright turquoise minky on the back (to match Captain America), and Aurifil 50wt. black thread for the top.  I really wanted those black elongated starbursts to stand out without distraction.

Using a smaller 6" finished half square triangle had some nice benefits.  I could use yardage, not distort the pattern too much when keeping it to 60" wide - and the best bonus of all ... a 'bigger starburst!"  This two tone quilt needed 240 Accuquilt cut HST pieces - 120 black triangles and 120 comic book triangles. 

If you are making your own half square triangles - here is a good tutorial from Jacquelynne Steves and a wonderful chart on what size to cut your squares.  She gives two sizes - one that allows wiggle room and further trimming - love that.  
If you are making this quilt in two colors you need 60 squares in each color.  Using a generous 7.25" square for your half square triangles so you can trim them after sewing - 2.4 yards of each fabric is the math.  I would go a bit more generous and get 3 yards but I always err on more than less.  The extra can always go towards the binding.

Materials:
Marvel Retro Comics Covers fabric
Wintergreen Aged Solids / Moda
Aurifil 50wt. #2600 (Dove) #2692 (black) #1148 (Turquoise)
Warm & White batting
Dimple Dot Minky in Peacock / Hawthorne Threads
Accuquilt Half Square Triangle 6" finished square
Thanks to Missouri Star Quilt Co. for the Starburst tutorial
Thanks to Jacquelynne Steves for the HST tutorial 
Size: 60" x 72"
March 2018

Big Sky Simple Square Quilt (#93)

Some fabrics look really nice cut up into simple squares.  Big Sky by Annie Brady for Moda is one of these collections.

Cute bears, woodland creatures and a variety of colorful foliage harmonize in forest greens and browns.
I started out with a few layer cakes ... steamed ironed & starched.  I knew they would shrink so all squares were cut  4.5" x 4.5".  

14 squares across by 17 rows down plus small borders on all sides makes this a perfect minky quilt at 60" x 72".

I am really liking the same color fabric for the small borders and  the binding.  Usually I 'frame' the quilt with a different colored binding - but after seeing this I will do the melding look again. 

Aurifil 50wt. thread in simple straight lines on either side of the seams makes a nice square pattern.  

To read about this minky's quilt journey from start to finish there are 7 blog posts under "How to Make a Minky Quilt" here.

Got the wooden box, the S'mores and the cuddly bear - it's off to auction we go. This will be my third quilt to be donated for the Immaculate Heart Morther/Daughter Luncehon - the alma mater for both me & my daughter. So, from the Class of '75 & 2017 - this sweet quilt is made just for you.

Materials:
Big Sky by Annie Brady / Moda
Warm & White batting
Dimple dot minky - brown
Aurifil 50wt. #2360 (brown) & #2314
Size: 60" x 72"
February 2018

How to Make a Minky Quilt Part 1 - The Top

Minky quilts have their challenges but nothing that is too hard to handle.  This starts a series of posts on how I make a minky quilt. I quilt on a home machine with a walking foot and these blankets are made to be machine washed & dried for daily use. 
The following thoughts & tips are my own - but as in all things, you must do what is right for you.

Basically the bottom line for any quilt is to have a nice flat quilt top before you start assembly of your quilt sandwich. 
This includes the front and the back.

What I do: 
* Pre-wash fat quarters or fabric yardage  
* Do not wash pre-cuts
* Use lots of canned spray starch
* Iron, iron & iron
* Press seams open
* Trim all loose threads - front & back
* Use a #12 needle for regular quilting cotton and a
  #10 needle for batiks 
* Stitch length is 1.5  in a scant 1/4" seam

Cautions: 
* Using steam to iron and starch will shrink your unwashed fabric.  Use your judgement on this point if you need every inch for a specific pattern or design.  Ironing at every stage is still necessary.
* If you stitch in the ditch - do not press seams open. 

All posts are linked at the top of the blog under 'How To Make a Minky Quilt" - or scroll down to read Part 2 - The Table.

How To Make a Minky Quilt Part 2 - The Table

My minky quilt sandwich is: minky on the back, Warm & White batting and a cotton top. I have used flannel and muslin with minky as well - it just depends on how heavy you want your quilt to be. Since the size of my minky quilts never goes beyond a lap at 60" x 73" - its a good weight for snuggling and washes & dries nicely in large load machines. 

I use to layout all my quilts on the carpet floor in my garage - which is my sewing area.  I made a portable layout table a few months ago and it's great.  Bottom line - whether you assemble on the floor or a table - the sequence is the same.  First ... the table.

The layout table is:  two banquet tables on risers. Standard tables from a super store - 30" x 71".

The bed risers are 5" from Amazon and run about $17.

Up next are 3 pieces of sanded/finished plywood that have been cut to 24" x 82".  They are 1/2" deep.  The panels started out at the hardware store at 8' x 4' and were cut to size.  This means they are pretty narrow to stack and lay against a wall in the garage when not in use.

These 3 plywood pieces go on top of the banquet tables - and are taped together with blue wide painters tape.

You do use quite a bit of painters tape for minky quilt layouts but that's what stops the minky from slipping & sliding!

Cut your batting to the size you need.
 Now would be a good time to shake the minky OUTSIDE to remove any stray fluffy bits - even a few mins in the dryer on low will do to reduce shedding!  

I usually pre-wash minky in cold and dry on low.  I use a lot of Kona white and if the minky color is really saturated - like a bright red or blue - I feel better if it's washed and know any color bleed happens before I quilt.  If the minky is white or cream I will wash only if time allows. Also, it depends on how dusty it arrives - but bottom line - it's fine to pre-wash the minky!

Clear the table and spread out the minky. 
The total table area is 72" x 82" - perfect for a minky quilt that is no more than 60" wide.  60" is the standard width of minky.   
All posts are linked at the top of the blog under 'How To Make a Minky Quilt" or scroll down to read Part 3 - The Layout.

How To Make a Minky Quilt Part 3 - The Layout

The Layout

Now it's time to lay that minky flat, whether it's on a table, the floor or carpet.  If you do stretch minky during the layout process - chances are it will pull back to its original size by the time you quilt.  That means your quilt top will be one measurement and the minky another.  That's why a quilt about 57" to 58" wide is perfect.  It fits just inside the minky's 60" wide standard width.  You have a few inches of wiggle room if your quilt is not totally square at this point - and you have an edge to sew off when you quilt.

With wide blue painters tape - tape all sides to the table or floor. You want to 'grab' about 1/2" of minky with the tape and neatness does not count.  

For a quilt 58" x 73/74" - I get 2.5 yards of minky.  There is a little left over but sometimes the minky cuts drift and its better to be safe than sorry.  I purchase my minky from two sources:  Hawthorne Threads & Fabric.com and mostly get the 'dimple dot' variety.

Time to assemble the quilt.  I use any type of basting spray - June Tailor from JoAnn's is always a good deal when they have a sale.  I find that quilter's pins are just not sharp enough to easily go through cotton/batting/minky - personal choice.  

There are many tutorials on how to spray baste and not have a total mess on your floor or carpet. I admit I have some spray marks on my garage floor carpet - not what you want in your home.  Do what works for your area. If you are spraying outside or on a wooden/laminate floor - protect the surrounding areas and use knee pads - they really help.

What is important is to layout your layers and flatten them well before you start to spray. The quilt top has been ironed flat.  The batting has been cut to hang a few inches over the minky so everything is manageable.  Now smooth it so it looks perfect. (I even steam iron the batting if its really creased.)  It's a pity to mess up all this perfection but only when everything is as flat as it can be (batting on minky) do I pull half of the batting back and spray on the minky. You are only working on half of the quilt. 

Depending what side of the table I am on - I use one hand in a sweeping motion to press the batting on the minky - while the other hand is holding up the rest of the batting so it doesn't flop onto the sprayed area. If you have a helper on the other side of the table it is easier to drape and smooth together.  Work from the middle to the sides when pressing and smoothing down your layers.

I spray half of the quilt at a time - but if you are nervous or this seems too ambitious -  spray and work in smaller sections.  This picture is only to show how to divide your quilt into sections while you work on one half at a time.

If you are doing this by yourself you will have to walk around the quilt from side to side. But whether you have help or not - smooth from the middle to the side on your way down!

After you have wrestled with the batting - do this same procedure with the quilt top - lay it on the batting - smooth it out nicely - peel it back, spray the batting and flatten.  Do this in a well ventilated area.

 I can't emphasize how important it is to have the layers flat and positioned before you spray. Once that spray is on it is hard to wiggle the quilt in any direction.  You want to know everything fits before you squish it all together!  Lastly, remove the blue painters tape and you are ready to trim.  

All posts are linked at the top of the blog under 'How To Make a Minky Quilt" - or scroll down to read Part 4 - Cutting & Timming.

How To Make a Minky Quilt Part 4 - Cutting & Trimming

How to trim before quilting. 
Meet your new best friend - the vacuum cleaner hose. There is no way around it, you have to vacuum often. I don't use any attachment, just the hose to get the best suction.  

Cutting with scissors creates an uneven edge and will result in more shedding.  Using a sharp rotary blade is the best option.  Rotary trim about 20 inches at a time.  Trim all the excess batting and minky about 1/2" from the edge. 

Cut that 20 inch strip of excess minky & batting that is hanging with a pair of scissors.  Put it quickly in a handy trash can - and then VACUUM the side of the quilt and the mat.  The goal here is to minimize how much fluff gets over the quilt & you. Repeat this sequence for all four sides of your quilt. Short cut & vacuum ... short cut & vacuum.  
On each short cut & vacuum - pick up the quilt and vacuum underneath it to get fibers left on your cutting mat.

 To remove any stubborn minky on your mat after you have trimmed the quilt sandwich - the green scrubbing side of a dry clean kitchen sponge works well.  It really sounds worse than it is - yes, there is fluff but it's not horrible. The end result is totally worth it ... just vacuum as you go.

Why trim?  Well, it minimizes large areas of sticky sprayed batting getting in your way when you quilt. It also keeps edges tidy and tight. 

All posts are linked at the top of the blog under "How To Make a Minky Quilt" or scroll down to read Part 5 - How to Quilt on Minky.

How to Make a Minky Quilt Part 5 - Quilting

Most important when quilting on minky: a walking foot and a new #14 needle.  At every bobbin change - just check that your needle is free of any spray baste that may have some fibers stuck to it.

Here is my fancy sewing set up for both piecing and quilting. Two children's tables with a larger piece of white laminate that is not attached.  It is important to have a side table next to your machine - minky is heavy and can be a 'drag' when compared to an all cotton quilt. 

Just quilt an arm's length at a time - re-adjust and pull the quilt up some more and continue. You can also use your left arm to help the quilt along by gently pulling on the back.

I have no experience with free motion - my minky quilts are either straight stitched or with a wavy line.  Shown above is an example of a 3.0 length.  Anything from a 3.0, a 3.5 or a 4.0 stitch length is good.  When you reach the middle of the quilt you will find it harder to quilt.  The bulk of the quilt and just the nature of the minky will work your sewing machine motor a little harder. No worries - just slow down your speed and help the blanket along and everything will be fine :)  

Yes, its easier with a bigger machine - but I have done many blankets using a small Janome in the early days and they came out just great. 

I use Aurifil #50 for both piecing and quilting. I go medium speed and not race like a manic when quilting - it's a walking foot... not a running foot!

Here are some examples of wavy stitches following the seams - always a winner.

Some minky's like to try and make an appearance on the quilt top.  Below you can see a hint of red minky fluff trying to surface on the white Kona.  I know no way to stop that.  But for me, that slight show through is not enough to stop using minky.

Another concern can be uneven thread tension.  What may happen is a minor show through of the bottom bobbin thread onto the quilt top.  Good news is that since minky is usually 3mm thick, the bottom thread pretty much sinks & disappears. You don't need to coordinate bottom thread color to minky color.  Dark minky and light quilt tops can work with a light thread color throughout.

This quilt has a beautiful chocolate brown back but I used the same thread for both the top & bottom.  It looks good from every side!  

Before you start to quilt use some spare minky to test out quilting tension and stitch size. 

It's also time to be flexible.  For me that means keeping top and bottom thread colors light on a delicate quilt (left) - and going bold and wild with  different top & bottom threads on a snazzy quilt (right).

Lastly, clean your bobbin area (lift out the bobbin casing and remove fluff) with each new bobbin. You don't need any more fluff!

All posts are linked at the top of the blog under 'How To Make a Minky Quilt" - or scroll down to read Part 6 - How to Bind a Minky Quilt.